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Active Kilitop and Safaris

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Western circuit · Tanzania

Rubondo Island National Park

A forested island in Lake Victoria, made a national park in 1977 and used as a sanctuary for animals that had nowhere else to go. Almost nobody visits, which is most of the point.

Size456 km²
Established1977
Getting thereFlight or boat
Best monthsJun–Aug · Dec–Feb
Suggested stay3 nights
The place

Rubondo Island, in short.

Rubondo is an island of forest in Lake Victoria, and one of the strangest and most rewarding parks in Tanzania. In the 1960s and 70s it was used as a release site for animals that had nowhere else to go — chimpanzees rescued from European zoos and circuses among them.

Those chimpanzees bred and now live wild in the forest, and a habituation programme means visitors can track them. It is a young habituation compared with Gombe or Mahale, so sightings take more work and feel more like genuine tracking than viewing.

The rest of it is quiet, green and almost entirely empty of people. Sitatunga in the papyrus, otters on the shore, elephant and giraffe brought over decades ago, and a bird list that runs past three hundred. Most days you will not see another vehicle, because there is barely another vehicle.

Getting there

Where to start, and how to arrive.

01

Fly from the Serengeti

~1 hour

A charter or scheduled hop from the western Serengeti or Mwanza to the island airstrip. The natural way to add Rubondo to a northern-circuit trip.

The trade-off

Links neatly with the Western Corridor

Camp meets the plane

Fixed schedules in season

02

Fly to Mwanza, then boat

Flight, then 2–3 hrs by boat

Mwanza is well served from Dar and Arusha. From there a boat crosses to the island, or a short charter flies over.

The trade-off

Cheapest way in

Boat crossings depend on weather

Mwanza is worth a night in itself

03

Boat from Nkome or Kasenda

~1–2 hours

Local jetties on the lake shore closest to the island. Suits overland and budget travellers approaching from Geita or Chato.

The trade-off

For overland trips

Crossings are weather-dependent

Arrange in advance, not on the day

When to go

The month decides a great deal.

Jun – AugDry and easy

Dry trails, good tracking conditions and calm water for boat trips.

Exceptional
Dec – FebDry and green

A second dry window, with butterflies and migrant birds. Excellent and very quiet.

Exceptional
Mar – MayLong rains

Wet, and the forest trails become hard going. Fishing remains good.

Low season
Sep – NovShort rains

Green flush, birds breeding, and few visitors of any kind.

Good
Compare with the other parks →
What to see

Where to point the vehicle.

Forest

The chimpanzees

Descendants of animals released here from European zoos in the 1960s. Habituation is ongoing, so tracking is genuine work rather than a guaranteed viewing.

Swamp

Sitatunga in the papyrus

Rubondo holds one of the densest sitatunga populations anywhere — a swamp-dwelling antelope with splayed hooves, rarely seen elsewhere.

Shore

The lake shore and beaches

Sand beaches, otters, fish eagles, and water clear enough to swim in the safe bays.

Island

The forest interior

Closed-canopy forest with mahogany and wild jasmine, walkable on trails, and completely different from anywhere else in Tanzania.

What to do

Ways to be in it.

01

Chimpanzee tracking

A working habituation programme. Expect to walk, and expect no guarantees — this is closer to research than to tourism.

02

Walking safaris

The island has no dangerous game in the numbers that stop you walking, so guided forest walks are straightforward and long.

03

Boat safaris

Around the shore for sitatunga, otter, hippo, croc and an enormous number of birds.

04

Sport fishing

Catch-and-release Nile perch, which run very large here. One of the few Tanzanian parks where fishing is part of the offer.

05

Birding

Over 300 species, with fish eagle, papyrus specialists and forest species all in a small area.

06

Canoeing

Quiet paddling along the shoreline and into the papyrus channels.

Where to stay

The camp decides the safari.

An island with one lodge, a set of park bandas and some campsites — and, on most nights of the year, almost nobody else. Getting here is the expensive part; staying is not.

“We have slept in every camp we put people in. If we would not stay there, it does not go in your itinerary.” Gabriel Nkini · founder
Cheapest way in

Park bandas and campsites

A night here — a simple room or a tent under the trees, with the lake through the branches and nobody else on the island.

TANAPA keeps bandas, a rest house and campsites near park headquarters at Kageye. Basic, cheap and almost always available, because Rubondo receives very few visitors. Bring what you need from Mwanza; catering is limited and cannot be assumed.

Best for
Budget travellers, birders, the self-sufficient, long stays
Less good for
Anyone expecting service or reliable supplies
Where
Kageye, near park headquarters
The one lodge

The island lodge

A night here — a room open to Lake Victoria, a boat at the jetty, and the forest going on behind you for twenty-five kilometres.

There is a single lodge on the island, and it runs the boats, the walking, the fishing and the chimpanzee habituation work that visitors join. It is expensive and it is also the only way to access most of what makes Rubondo worth the journey. Very few guests at a time.

Best for
Chimpanzee habituation, fishing, birding, real solitude
Less good for
Tight budgets, travellers wanting guaranteed primate sightings
Where
The island, reached by charter airstrip or boat
Base outside

Mwanza and the mainland

A night here — a city hotel on the lake, with rocks and fishing boats outside the window.

Mwanza has full-service hotels and is the staging point for the island. Because the crossing is long and charters are weather-dependent, a night either side of a Rubondo trip in Mwanza is often a practical necessity rather than a choice.

Best for
Breaking the journey, flight connections, budget
Less good for
Anyone who thinks of it as seeing Rubondo — it is not
Where
Mwanza · charter to the island airstrip, or boat from Kasenda

Getting there is the cost. A charter to the island airstrip or a long boat crossing from Mwanza is the expensive part of Rubondo; the beds themselves, park bandas especially, are not.

The chimpanzees here are habituating, not habituated. They were released onto the island from European zoos and circuses in the 1960s and their descendants are wild. Sightings take days of tracking and are not guaranteed, and anyone booking Rubondo purely for chimpanzees should go to Mahale instead.

Nearby

What it combines with.

Honest travel times, and the pairings we most often build around it.

Practical

Before you come.

Fees

TANAPA park fees are charged per person per 24 hours, with separate vehicle and, in some areas, concession fees. Rates change annually. Ours are always quoted inclusive so there is nothing to pay at the gate.

Health

Malaria prophylaxis is advised year-round. A yellow fever certificate is required if you arrive from a country with risk of transmission. We carry medical evacuation cover on every trip.

Visas

Most nationalities can obtain a Tanzanian visa on arrival or online in advance. If you are combining with Kenya, ask us about the East Africa Tourist Visa before you apply for either.

Vehicles

Extended Land Cruisers with a pop-up roof, window seats for everyone, a fridge and charging points. We do not put strangers together unless you have asked for a shared departure.

Connectivity

Patchy at best. Camps generally have some signal or satellite wi-fi in the main area; away from them, none. Most people stop checking after two days.

What to pack

Neutral colours, a warm layer for dawn drives, a hat, binoculars and a proper camera strap. Laundry is done daily at most camps, so pack less than you think. Soft bags only if you are flying.

Questions

The ones we are asked most.

Why are there chimpanzees on an island in Lake Victoria?

They were released here in the 1960s and 70s, most of them rescued from European zoos and circuses. They bred, and their descendants now live wild in the forest.

Will I see the chimpanzees?

Less reliably than at Gombe or Mahale. The habituation is younger, so tracking is real work. Come for the island as a whole rather than for one animal.

Is it safe to swim?

In the designated bays at the camp, yes. Elsewhere on the shore there are crocodile, and parts of Lake Victoria carry bilharzia risk.

How do I get there?

A flight to the island airstrip, usually from the Serengeti or Mwanza, or a boat crossing from Mwanza or Nkome.

Can I walk here?

Yes, extensively. It is one of the easiest parks in Tanzania in which to walk, because the dangerous game is limited.

How many nights?

Three. It takes effort to reach, and the island rewards slowing down once you are on it.

Begin here

Tell us the month, and we will place you.

Where you should be depends almost entirely on when you can travel. Tell us that and we will say honestly whether Rubondo Island is right for you that month — or whether somewhere else would serve you better.

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