The place
Rubondo Island, in short.
Rubondo is an island of forest in Lake Victoria, and one of the strangest and most rewarding parks in Tanzania. In the 1960s and 70s it was used as a release site for animals that had nowhere else to go — chimpanzees rescued from European zoos and circuses among them.
Those chimpanzees bred and now live wild in the forest, and a habituation programme means visitors can track them. It is a young habituation compared with Gombe or Mahale, so sightings take more work and feel more like genuine tracking than viewing.
The rest of it is quiet, green and almost entirely empty of people. Sitatunga in the papyrus, otters on the shore, elephant and giraffe brought over decades ago, and a bird list that runs past three hundred. Most days you will not see another vehicle, because there is barely another vehicle.