The place
Lake Manyara, in short.
Manyara is the small one, and it is usually treated as a half-day on the way to somewhere else. It repays more attention than that. The park is a ribbon two to three kilometres wide, pinned between a 600-metre escarpment and the lake, and that compression is what makes it interesting.
You enter through genuine groundwater forest — fig and mahogany fed by springs coming out of the escarpment wall, loud with baboon and blue monkey. Within twenty minutes it opens into acacia woodland and then to the floodplain and the lake, with flamingo strung along the shallows.
The tree-climbing lions are real but not reliable; they are seen here more than almost anywhere, and still not often. Come for the density and the variety in a small space rather than for one animal.